You can practically smell the fresh asphalt when you arrive at Udomxai, the major transport hub of northern Laos. Sometimes spelled Oudomxay, Oudomxai and also referred to as Muang Xai, the provincial capital’s importance can be attributed to the fact that it’s within a day’s drive of Thailand, Vietnam and most conspicuously, China. Being the centre of all things has won Udomxai success as a commercial corridor but not for tourism—the city has about the same amount of charm as a major bus station. The key to Udomxai is getting out of the city and exploring the pockets of rural beauty the province has in bounds. There is also ethnic diversity to learn about. The province has approximately 12 different ethnic groups and the predominant one is not Lao Loum but Khmu, estimated to make up some 60 to 80% of the provincial population.