For over 500 years, until its decline in the 14th century, Cambodia was the heart of one of the most prosperous civilisations in Asia. Its Khmer kings fended off foreign armies and mobilised their subjects to construct hundreds of ostentatious Hindu and Buddhist temples. The architectural sophistication and the bas-reliefs showing plump figures and triumphal battle scenes reflect a robust, healthy and wealthy period of history. Most tourists come to Cambodia to see Angkor Wat, the crowning glory of the Khmer Empire and one of the largest religious monuments in the world. It would be a mistake, though, to think that Cambodia starts and ends with Siem Reap. The capital, Phnom Penh, continues to revitalize itself and offers excellent Khmer arts experiences, an itinerary counterbalance to sober reflection on the Khmer Rouge years. Rural Battambang tempts with authentic countryside life, far removed from the traffic of Angkor. And the southwest coastal towns of Kep and Sihanoukville, in addition to their charming French colonial remnants, are now a portal to one of Southeast Asia’s most acclaimed new resorts, Song Saa Private Island. Cambodia today is a complete holiday destination like never before.